4:30 Walking orientation tour around the Hilton by Niki

If you exit hotel and turn right you go to the Old town to North gate.  Veer left at the split and the dark stone building is the National Archives.

Across from the hotel is a government building restored to 1908.  Last year there were no roof tiles.

Turn left to go to the main square: Methias Church (we tour that tomorrow) Trinity Square and Fishermans Bastion.

We walked beside and behind the hotel.  There is super great view across the strait of the Parliament building.  The building with the black dome and 2 mini towers (not minarets) is St. Stephens Cathedral.

She explained that transport here by taxi.  Use the “BOLT” app to get an Uber-like service.

Or you can take bus 16 (NOT bus 16A) to St. Stephnes, then walk to the parliament. Use the ticket machine to get a single ticket. Buy buy two tickets for a round trip. Validate the ticket on the bus.

The exchange rate is about 450 for 1 USD.

For the toilet, you can use 1 USD.

We walked across the street.  The "Prima" grocery store on the corner of the alley.

Walk down the alley to a bakery where you can get the best strudel with fruit for 1.5 USD. Walking.

She pointed out an elevator Granit lift that you take down one level to a museum of "Hospital in the rock".  You get a tour of the tunnels where people were safe from bombing. To the ArpadSetany street.

Walking back to the Hilton we passed the oldest pastry shop: Ruszwurm  1827.

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Day 2 - Budapest, Hungary City Tour

Viking itinerary:

Budapest’s old town is a fascinating medieval patchwork of narrow streets and colorful houses. In the Castle District, the Matthias Church soars in Gothic glory. Adjacent, the expansive wall and seven turrets of Fisherman’s Bastion overlook the Danube, the graceful Chain Bridge and the Pest side of the river. The centerpiece of the district is the sprawling Buda Castle. Constructed in the 13th century and expanded to its current baroque splendor during the 18th century, this edifice was home to Hungary’s kings for almost 700 years.

Cross the Chain Bridge, browse a museum or visit a thermal spa in the “Paris of the East.”

My notes:

Breakfast is included. Breakfast hours are 6:45 to 10:30.

They seated us and served us coffee and OJ, then we went to the buffet. What a magnificent spread! And they had porridge! Yay.

The tour starts at 9 and we are here early at the Viking table. So we could have taken more time at breakfast.

I am absolutely loving that I don’t have to work. I am watching the Viking people working to prepare for us. Gary is socializing with other people so I can write.

In this room against the wall there are 17 pieces of luggage that all matches. The boat employees workers.

We did this tour:

Morning 9 am to 1:30 (3.5 hours) Sightseeing UNESCO Shopping Moderate

PANORAMIC BUDAPEST  HUNGARY’S GRACEFUL AND INSPIRING CAPITAL

Take in one of Europe’s great cultural capitals and see its iconic sights. Over the last few decades, Budapest has reemerged as one of the continent’s iconic cities, divided by the Danube River and connected by the graceful Chain Bridge.

Meet your guide for a panoramic tour, beginning in modern Pest. Along the elegant Andrássy Avenue, admire the National Opera House. Pass Heroes’ Square, a spacious plaza of monuments and statues commemorating the Magyar state. Across the river, explore the more traditional Buda side of the city. Here, visit the Castle District with its massive hilltop castle complex, the turreted Fisherman’s Bastion and Matthias Church. From the heights of Buda Hill, take in views of the famous Chain Bridge. Afterward, enjoy free time at Budapest's colorful Market Hall to browse an array of speciality food and handicrafts.

My notes:

Sylvia is our tour guide.

Our first tour was inside Matthias Church. It is beside the Hilton hotel so we just walked over there.

The roof tiles are Pyro granite (flamed granite) porcelain manufacturing

It is an active Roman Catholic church so take your hat off.

There are three names for the church

1 The Church of Our Lady of Buda Castle

2 Mathias Church

3 Coronation Church (because in 1961 the last coronation took place . King Charles ?. We have no more kings.)

They had 150 years of Turkisk Ottomans occupation when this church was a mosque. The walls were white washed.

The Virgin Mary is on the main statue on the high altar. Wearing Hungarian holy crown on her head.

I think this is story why the crown on her head: King Steven’s son was killed. He offered the holy crown to the virgin mary to take care of the land

After the church we continued the tour on the bus.

Two thirds of city was bombed in WWII.

After WWII they endured 40 years of communism.

Our guide told us "In 1956 there was uprising that was suppressed by 2000 Russian tanks. We really appreciate our democracy now. We are very happy with freedom. We finally live in a peaceful period.”

Someone asked about Hungary opinion of the war in Ukraine. She responded “We have Neutral government and we do not support the Ukranians or the Russians. And Viking policy cannot talk about politics.”

They reconstruct and restore castle and buildings, and you can still see bullet holes in the lower part of the castle.

The style is “Stalin Baroque” for the old communist buildings 1970-1980.

A college degree requires 2 languages. English, German, Italian, French. The guide said “Hungarian is the most useless language in the world”

We drove to downtown area. To Elizabeth square where there is a ferris wheel. The jewish quarter is beside the “Elizabethtown” area/district. The Jewish synagogue has black onion domes.

The Opera building in Budapest was not allowed to be bigger than the one in Vienna. But it is “more beautiful than the opera house in Vienna”!

Opera house pictures are from Wiki and https://www.opera.hu/anyagok/galeria/1080/

We drove by the House of Terror Museum. “TERROR” entablature on the top of the museum.

Our guide said “Hungarian KGB, Communist headquarters. It was a very dark period.”

From Wiki: It contains exhibits related to the fascist and communist regimes in 20th-century Hungary and is also a memorial to the victims of these regimes, including those detained, interrogated, tortured, or killed in the building.

In front of this museum is an original piece of the Berlin wall.

 We drove to the Millennium Memorial in “Hero square”. Ark angel on top of the column in front of the tomb of unknown soldier.

Museum of Fine Art on Hero square

Information from our guide

In 1896 the subway opened. It is the oldest subway on the continent and the second oldest in Europe (the London tube is older).

About half the population is Roman Catholic. The government in coalition with Christian teachings so 1 religion class is required in school.

The Danube is not “blue” like the name of the Blue Danube waltz implies. The composer liked red wine. He had too much and some red wine went into the river so it is not blue any more. She never said “green” though. It looks green to me.

20% of the cost of renovating a building must be spent on the outside of the building. After so much destruction, I can’t imagine starting the renovations. It will be Ukraine that needs it next…. This picture shows a beautiful renovated buiding beside a drab 70's Soviet architecture building.

We got off the bus and walked a couple blocks to a square (“Vorosmarty ter” on Google maps) with a fountain and cafe Gerbeaud. There is a shopping street off this square.

My notes:

These are the other tours that Viking also offered:  

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Day 4 - Kalocsa, Hungary – Puszta horse show, organ concert

Viking itinerary:

 Once the seat of the archbishop, the cultural center of Kalocsa is more than 1,000 years old.

The quaint town, surrounded by 8,000 acres of farmland growing fiery red peppers, is brimming with traditional Hungarian culture and steeped in the piquant flavors of paprika, the “red gold” that has been giving local goulash its distinctive taste for centuries. The world’s first Paprika Museum chronicles the spice’s history.

The streets are adorned with bright murals of floral motifs, which create a cheery ambience for browsing craft-filled shops. Hungary’s artistic heritage takes center stage at the House of Folk Arts museum.

Sample paprika-flavored food in this cultural center and see blue-attired csikós, or Hungarian cowboys at a Puszta horsemanship show.

Morning 8:30 – 12pm (3 HOURS 30 MINUTES) Sightseeing Easy

KALOCSA & PUSZTA HUNGARY’S CAPITAL OF PAPRIKA AND EQUESTRIAN ARTS

Visit one of Hungary’s major cultural centers and attend a breathtaking display of traditional horsemanship. Depart your ship for a short drive to the city of Kalocsa, where a rich history is flavored by the town’s renowned peppery paprika. In Holy Trinity Square, you will see the splendid cathedral and admire the Archbishop’s Palace.

After a short organ concert at St. Joseph Church, continue to the Bakodpuszta Equestrian Center. The people of the Hungarian Puszta region have long relied on horses for transportation, settlement and defense of their land. Many locals worry that their country’s equestrian connection is being lost to a motorized world, so they hold fast to rural ways and to their four-legged comrades, elevating horsemanship to an art form. Witness the sometimes acrobatic culmination of this long-cherished relationship during a thrilling show.

My notes:

2nd was stone and it lasted 20 years

3rd3rd church was same style and it lasted 300 years

4th church built after 150 years and the occupation. The Turks left and they rebuilt it again middle of 18th century finish. It is Italian baroque style 1754 in the cathedral.

All buildings in the square are the same style – yellow baroque style. The church has many ornate and heavy decorations to entice people to come back to church.

The pulpit is carved wood. Ceiling is gilded frescos with a pink background.

Church is dedicated to Virgin Mary.

In the show there are 5 Horse riders plus one donkey.

Another position is the horse sitting like a dog. It is the most difficult position for a horse.  This unusual position is only for the show.

The played games with the horses. They did a skill game with a whip, a balance game, a tag game.  One game was with wine, but this is "duty time" so it is not really wine.

The next part of the show was managing multiple horses.

They had a 3-horse carriage. It was a very unique configuration where one horse pulls the back wheels. It is a very good solution to get the carriage out of the mud. That must be the strongest horse.

A farmer needs to decide if he wants/needs a strong horse, or a fast horse (which is more expensive). If he can’t afford 3 horses, he borrows a horse from the neighbor.

They also had a 4-horse formation. My picture below shows a 10-horse horse formation.

This farm has done 3 rows of 6 horses. “Coq 20” in a competition. That is very hard to control. Must be very skilled.

The last part of the show was the long horn cattle. These horns can get twice as long. Horns are used to scratch themselves and each other.

Gray color but brown when born. They are outside year round so they grow longer thicker fur.

There is no bull. These are oxen. Semi-domestic animals. Use these cattle for meat but not for milk. 

Pálinka is a traditional fruit spirit (or fruit brandy) with origins in the medieval Hungary, known under several names.

 We had some time to look around the farm. There was a man playing an instrument like an oboe and clarinet.

.

We were still docked (not moving) so we went for a walk into town of Vukovar. 

Here is a picture of me taking a picture

and Gary getting ready to take the same picture

of the picture of the famous water tower.

and so it goes, more duplicate photos to sort through..

Welcome to Vukovar.

My notes from a National Geographic show on 8/29/2024

Belgrade is on the Sava and Danube rivers.  The Orthodox Epithany is when Jesus was baptised so all water is holy. 

At this intersection, on the Epithany (January 11 this year) they swim 33 meters  (the age when Jesus death) in 3 degree water. It takes at least 22 seconds. 7 women participated this year.

The naked “Victor” statue (it means “winner”) supervises the meeting points of the rivers.

This bronze statue was made to celebrate 1918 end of the great war.   

The park plans date from 1867. The park is the green space between the town and the fortress.

 

Saturday Evening presentation and Serbian dancing

This was a very interesting 100 slide PowerPoint show by Srdjan Ristic about the wars and changing powers in the region. This is his book:

Yugoslavia: Utopia or Inspiration? From Exalting Vision to Fractured Reality by Mr. Srdjan Ristic and Rudy B. Baker PhD

From Amazon: In Yugoslavia: Utopia or Inspiration?", Belgrade native and preeminent Yugoslav history speaker and lecturer Srdjan Ristic details more than 30 years of dedicated study into the profound exploration of the birth, existence, and demise of the once-powerful Communist country of Yugoslavia—a subject that continues to captivate Europe and the world at large.

I watched his presentation on the television set in my room and I took a picture of each PowerPoint slide but I can’t include his copyrighted pictures in my journal. I found some of the information that he presented on the Internet and Wikipedia and I included that in my write-ups about Yugoslavia and the southeastern European countries that we visit on this trip. I hope he doesn’t mind that I am posting his Recommended Books slide:

 

9 pm after the presentation they had great show of traditional dances. The dancers were also wearing traditional Serbian clothes. 

 

These are the other tours that Viking also offered:

OPTIONAL BEST OF BELGRADE $159 -

DURATION: 6 HOURS 830 am – 2:30 pm Sightseeing Meal Moderate*

DISCOVER SERBIA’S RESURRECTED CAPITAL AND SAVOR LUNCH IN A WINE CELLAR

Explore the rich history and culture of Serbia’s capital and head underground for a lunch paired with wine. Once the center of a civil war, Belgrade today is an exuberant, forward-looking city. Drive with your guide to the ancient Kalemegdan Fortress, the pinnacle of the city. Enjoy a guided walk through the surrounding park. Then, during a panoramic drive, see the imposing Town Hall, once home of the Obrenović dynasty and Republic Square, before stopping to visit the Church of St. Sava, one of the largest Orthodox churches in the world. You will also tour the Tito Memorial, a moving tribute dedicated to the “Father of Yugoslavia,” Marshal Josip Tito. Later, descend underground into a vast labyrinth owned by the wine-making Panajotović family. Within the cool walls of these fascinating Roman-era cellars, savor a delicious lunch paired with a selection of their wines.  - Our guide said you will have lunch in underground catacombs dated 1680.

 

OPTIONAL KOVAČICA ART COLONY $99

DURATION: 3 HOURS 30 MINUTES 2pm – 5:30 pm Special Interest Snack Easy*

WITNESS NAÏVE ART AND THE ART OF VIOLIN MAKING

Journey into the Pannonian Basin to learn about the Naïve Art movement and to visit a violin-making studio. In the 1950s, Kovačica residents Martin Paluska and Jan Soko took brushes to canvas without formal training, and began to paint daily life around them. Perspective was not a concern for them, nor was realism. But the Naïve Art style that they created stuck and became a movement. Journey into the Carpathian Basin, past soybean and sunflower fields, where Slovaks, Serbs, Hungarians, Romanians and Slavs live in harmony side by side. Here, you will learn about the Naïve Art movement from an expert and browse the village collection. Some of the finest violins are made in Kovačica, too, as you will see when you visit the studio and home of violin maker Jan Nemček. The master will demonstrate some of his techniques and play a tune on a violin that he constructed.

 

OPTIONAL HISTORIC BELGRADE ON FOOT $89

DURATION: 4 HOURS 15 MINUTES 8:15 am- 12:30 pm Sightseeing Snack Shopping Demanding*

WALKING TOUR OF SERBIAN CAPITAL

Stroll the historic streets of Belgrade and see the city’s architectural highlights on a walking tour. At Kalemegdan Park, marvel at the landscape dominated by the imposing fortress. Built in the 3rd century BC by the Romans, the fortress guarded the border separating the ruling Roman Empire from barbarian lands across the Danube, later the divider between the Ottoman and Austro-Hungarian Empires. Explore the grounds as you learn of its dramatic storied past. Next, walk along the Grand Boulevard to Knez Mihailova Street where you will enjoy free time to stroll the pedestrian area and indulge in some shopping. Stop for coffee and cake at the historic Moscow Hotel and take a bus ride to the Church of St. Sava, one of the largest orthodox churches in the world. Return to your ship by tram.

 

OPTIONAL BICYCLING BELGRADE $99

DURATION: 2 HOURS 30 MINUTES 2;30 pm – 5 pm Active Moderate*

PEDAL THROUGH THE CAPITAL CITY’S GREEN SIDE

Join locals on a leisurely exploration of a popular urban outdoor escape along the banks of the Sava River. Begin your bicycle tour near the confluence of the Danube and Sava rivers, where the city of Belgrade has its roots. Pass Belgrade’s new waterfront complex, located on the right bank of river Sava, with its modern buildings and wide promenade. Surprisingly soon, you leave the bustle of Belgrade behind as you wind your way through parklands and quiet residential neighborhoods toward Ada Lake, located on an island in the river. This small idyll, lined with cozy cafés and sunny beaches, provides the perfect urban oasis and is very popular with the people of Belgrade. Spend some time taking in the tranquil surroundings and enjoy a refreshing drink before heading back to your ship.

 

OPTIONAL DINE IN BELGRADE’S BOHEMIAN QUARTER $129

DURATION: 2 HOURS 30 MINUTES 6pm – 8:30 pm Culinary Culture Local Life Sightseeing Moderate*

SAVOR A TASTY MEAL OF LOCAL FARE

Stroll the vintage streets of Belgrade and savor an authentic Serbian meal at a local restaurant. Meet your guide and embark on a guided walk through Skadarlija, the bohemian quarter of Belgrade known for its many cafes, art galleries and taverns. Stroll the cobblestoned streets of the Old Town and admire notable architecture, dating back to the 19th century. Soak up the atmosphere of the city’s quaint squares as you watch people amble by. At a local restaurant, sit down to a tasty meal of local fare and enjoy a lively toe-tapping performance. You will enjoy urnebes, a popular Serbian paprika spread; a tasty meat selection including ćevapi; grilled Serbian beef sausages; and a selection of traditional desserts. You will also enjoy some local Serbian wine. Your appetite sated, return to your awaiting ship.

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Day 7 - Golubac, Serbia – Tour Fortress and Scenic Sailing: The Iron Gate

Viking itinerary:

Learn about the history of the 14th-century Golubac Fortress and admire scenic river views.

Millennia of history await at “the Town of Doves,” the gateway to the Djerdap National Park. The Iron Gate of the Danube lies between the mighty Carpathian and Balkan Mountains, its dramatic scenery carved by narrow ravines. Guarding the Danube is the imposing 14th-century Golubac Fortress, which has seen ruling empires vie for its control over the centuries, changing hands between the Serbs, Hungarians, Bulgarians and Turks. Serbian culture is swathed in tradition, and it is an integral part of the country’s identity that has carried its people through challenging times in history. Ancient civilizations to modern empires have left their mark, creating a unique, fascinating heritage that spans thousands of years.

 

These are tours that Viking offered:  

 

HIKE TO VISTAS OF THE IRON GATE $99

DURATION: 4 HOURS 9 am – 1 pm Active Local Life Snack Demanding   SCENIC VIEWPOINTS, GOLUBAC FORTRESS AND KAPETAN MIŠIN BREG

Immerse yourself in the beauty of Serbia during a hike to a scenic viewpoint in idyllic Djerdap National Park. Stretching out along the Danube River and covering more than 245 square miles, the park is famous for its sweeping views of the Iron Gate gorge. Your park ranger and knowledgeable guide will lead you along a forest trail as you hike up the 1,174 feet to the Kovilovo viewpoint. Stop for refreshments and time to admire the beautiful landscape before hiking down. Your excursion will also take you to the remnants of Golubac Fortress, an imposing medieval town, and the eco-village of Kapetan Mišin Breg, where you will visit an art gallery before browsing the handicrafts on display and sampling local favorites such as honey brandy, proja (corn bread) and pohovana kopriva (fried nettles) at a private viewpoint. At the end of your tour, you will return to your awaiting ship.

 

LEPENSKI VIR Archaeological Site $99

DURATION: 4 HOURS 9 am – 1 pm Culture Local Life Snack Moderate     LIFE ALONG THE DANUBE FROM PREHISTORY TO TODAY

Discover one of Europe’s oldest settlements during a visit to the famous Lepenski Vir archaeological site. Founded more than 8,500 years ago along the banks of the Danube River, this important Stone Age find is often called the “first city in Europe.” Upon arrival, enjoy an insightful presentation, guided tour and free time to learn more about this prehistoric settlement and the culture that once flourished here. Your excursion into life along the Danube will take you to the remnants of Golubac Fortress, a medieval town with views of the surrounding landscape, and the eco-village of Kapetan Mišin Breg, where you will visit an art gallery before browsing the handicrafts on display and sampling local favorites such as honey brandy, proja (corn bread) and pohovana kopriva (fried nettles) from a private viewpoint. At the end of your tour, you will return to your awaiting ship.

We did this tour:

8:30 – 9:30 (1 hour) Sightseeing Moderate

GOLUBAC FORTRESS BY FOOT - MEDIEVAL TOWN WITH STRIKING VIEWS OF THE DANUBE

Admire sweeping views of the Danube River and its surroundings during a walking tour of Golubac Fortress. Disembark your ship at the pier and meet your guide, then take a short stroll to this fortified medieval town that sits along the shores of the mighty Danube. Explore the remnants of the high stone walls and looming square towers as your guide regales you with stories of the fortress’s history. Originally a Roman settlement, it was built during the 14th century; who built it remains a mystery, but its strategic position along the Danube made it a valuable prize for conquering armies throughout the centuries. Stop atop the ramparts to gaze across the Danube and revel in the natural beauty of the encircling landscape. After your walk, take a moment to appreciate your surroundings on your own before returning to your awaiting ship and continuing your cruise.

First mention of the fortress is 1335 (14th Century) when Tower 1 is the oldest part was built.

 I added the red tower labels to this Golubac Image by Slobodan Marković from Pixabay. https://pixabay.com/photos/castle-river-architecture-landscape-5146680/

 

My Notes:  

We see the fortress tour this morning. The tour is one hour then we have only 20 free minutes at the end of the tour to walk around.

About Golubac (from Wiki, the Day 6 evening presentation, our guide “Gogo” and the 8/29/2024 National Geographic show)

Our guide said the Golubac Fortress name translated means “pigeons”. It says Golub is “dove” on this site https://tvrdjavagolubackigrad.rs/eng/history/

It was built at the exceptional strategic entrance point to the Iron Gate.

This fortress was the last military outpost on that stretch of the Danube river. It is located at the head of the Iron Gate gorge.

It has been controlled by the Ottoman Empire, Serbia and Hungary throughout it’s history.

It enabled easy control of all the land and waterway routes that connected the east and the west.

It was the final line of defense. Whoever controlled the fortress, controlled the border, controlled the river traffic and all trade from here.

It has resisted 120 assaults.

 

It is mystery of who and when this place was built on these steep cliffs.

The fortification was founded in the 13th Century but first mention of the fortress is 1335 (14th Century) when Tower 1 is the oldest part was built.

The youngest Tower 9 was built about ~1475 (15th century) when it was the strongest military base.

70’s Danube 50 meters

Maximum of about 500 soldiers lived here.

Ottomans ruled 15th to 19th century controlled here.

1428 ottomans hung a battle The range of the ball thrower is 350 meters.

Traffic went through the fortress for 90 years! In the 20th century trucks damaged gate and stuck in tunnels.

2014 project to relocate the highway 8 million and 5 years whole fortress restored

1427 Serbia rule ended.

 

Towers

There are 9 towers. They are towers are 66 to 82 ft high.

Inside floors and stairs inside were made of wood, while external stairs were made of stone.

All towers were originally rectangular, but the Ottomans upgraded them and additionally fortified them against the artillery. The towers have no walkways between them so you have to conquer each tower separately.

Tower 1, nicknamed "Hat Tower".

The oldest and tallest tower built on the highest spot on the cliff. The citadel and the keep tower is the safest during danger or attack. Eight-sided base with a circular spire rising from it and a square interior.

Tower 2 The watchtower over the Danube. Completely circular in shape.

Tower 3 The tower defended by arrows (over 7000 were found)

Square base, with the open side facing the dungeon tower to the north. On the top floor is a terrace that overlooks the Danube and the entrance to the Iron Gate gorge. Extremely challenging to access.

Tower 4 The tower with a chapel. Square base.

It is an enclosed 5-story building. The ground floor has a Serbian Orthodox chapel. Army accommodations on other floors.

Tower 5 The tower that protected and defended the Palace.

6-story structure. Living quarters with fireplace and toilet. The only tower to remain completely square. Tower 6, Protecting the Fortress from hillside attacks. has a square base which was reinforced with a six-sided foundation. No access to this tower.

Tower 7 Square base reinforced with a circular foundation.

Christian inscriptions written in Serbian Slavic. Possibly a dungeon at some point.

Tower 8 Guarded the main gate.

Generally square base. It is also the shortest of the first nine towers. An amoury and food storage.

Tower 9 is the “Cannon Tower”. Used to guard the harbor.

It has only one floor and is the shortest of all the nine towers.

The youngest Tower 9 was built about ~1475 (15th century) when Golubac was the strongest military base.

It was built with an eight-sided base (polygonal shape) and cannon ports to help control traffic on the Danube.

It used to be on dry land, but with the formation of the artificial Lake Đerdap in the late 1960s and early 1970s, the water level rose so today it protrudes into the Danube. The tower from which cannons roared.

The Cannon Tower 9 is part of the Lower External Fortress and was later added to the Fortress in the fourth quarter of the 15th century (1475)

It was built as an attempt of the then expanding Ottoman Empire to fortify the captured strategic positions on the right bank of the Danube thereby consolidating the acquired positions against their major opponent on the European battlefield, the Kingdom of Hungary, and prepare for future conquests of its territories north of the river.

The tower was built as a protruding active-defensive fortification element, i.e„ as an artillery position or a cannon platform set in specially and purpose-fully constructed openings. Judging by its present appearance, it was equipped with 16 cannons deployed on two levels, with eight combat positions each, and served by several dozen crew who managed the tower. Its main function was to protect the port and the waterway. So far, replicas of cannon barrels made after authentic archeological models from Serbia have been installed in the Tower.

The cannon carriage is modeled according to the graphic and written sources of the Middle Ages.

Palace The majestic edifice - home of the long gone Fortress' commanders

The Palace is a monumental, multi-storey building belonging to the Lower compound of the Inner Fort

It is attributed to the second phase of construction, i.e. reign of despot Stefan Lazarevic.

The Palace comprised three storeys: the basement, used as a storage facility, the ground floor housing the main hall used for public functions as well as the private quarters of the town's commander, and the second floor where the palace garrison resided. The Palace had two entrances - gateways.

The staircase adjacent to the grand entrance with a semi-circular finish led to the chambers on the lower - ground level, currently under water due to Djerdap accumulation, which separated the entire Palace space into two parts.

The latest archaeological research has uncovered the access communication to the Palace made from trimmed rock.

 

Reconstruction from 2014 to 2019 and continued restorations

The area became Derdap national park and about 9 million Euros of European Union funds were for this "Cultural Route - Fortresses on the Danube".

The fortress required repairs from centuries of neglect and damage from heavy traffic was passing right through the fortress since the 1930’s Repairs were slow because of “discrepancy between the projected solutions and the existing situation”

It took 2 years of controlled explosions to build a 2300 ft tunnel to redirect the traffic.

April 2018, when the international cruise ships began to dock.

Based on the accessibility and difficulty, the complex is divided in four zones:

green (the lowest section; 3 towers and the palace are open for all visitors)

blue (only for adults; towers 3 and 4) red (only for adults with assigned special escort)

black (only for adults with assigned special escort, and applying specific safety procedures - physical fitness, special attire and footwear, absence of acrophobia and ophidiophobia (fear of snakes), allowed access for only two visitors at the time; Hat Tower).

They are considering building a bridge over the Danube close to the fortress to connect Romania with Serbia

The Danube is at its narrowest here, and the bridge will be some 370 m (1,210 ft) long.

 In 1995 a limestone quarry was closed here

 

Traffic went through the fortress for 90 years! In the 20th century trucks damaged gate and stuck in tunnels.

 

Reconstruction from 2014 to 2019 and continued restorations - This is Hat Tower 1 Hat

 

 

After the tour we only had 20 minutes to walk around. I lost track of Gary but I wanted to go up some of the towers.

I made it up two towers. Tower 5 I think I counted steps 46 wood steps and 29 stone steps.

I wish we had more than 20 minutes to walk around the fortress, but they required us to be back on board the ship at 9:45 am. 

Here is a tip for this cruise: BEFORE you go on the tour, go up to the roof and put something down on a chair in the shade to reserve the chair.

After the tour I went up to the roof and it was already very crowded, but I did find a place in the shade.  It was going to be a hot day, but if the boat was moving it was relatively comfortable with the breeze.

Floating along, laying on my chair it was most relaxing. Until you feel a stomach grumble. Lunch soon. Decisions, decisions. What to order.

Viking has adopted a "quiet ship" policy which means no announcements unless absolutely necessary.  Today at lunch it was necessary. Niki made an urgent announcement for someone to return their passport to the front desk and do it now.

While we were in Serbia (yesterday and today) we were told to carry our passports. When we got back on the ship, we had to give our passports back to the front desk, but someone forgot to do that and the Serbian authorities were waiting.  Actually, they are on board the boat "socializing". I'm guessing Viking provides food and drinks to keep the favorable relationship between the company and the country.

We were estimated to start our scenic sailing at 3, but we were still docked. At 3:45 the Serbian officials finally left with their brief cases and we were finally on our way.

We did  a brief stop in 31 miles to pick up the people that did the hike. Some folks started the hike but turned around when they saw how steep was the climb. Brian (I think) at our lunch table said the guide was surprised all 13 people made it to the top!

We also picked up the people that went to the Lepenski Vir archaeological site.  Archeologists say “exhumation” when you dig them up and “inhumation” not “burial”.

Viking's descripiton of Scenic Sailing: The Iron Gate. Sail the picturesque Danube River and admire the natural wonders of the Iron Gate. Sail through one of Europe’s most dramatic natural wonders, the picturesque stretch famously known as the Iron Gate. Meander through narrow gorges that slice through the Carpathian Mountains to the north and the Balkan Mountains to the south, and marvel at the towering white limestone cliffs draped with forest. Be on the lookout for ancient remains upon the dramatic walls. On the Serbian side, Trajan’s Tablet was laid to mark the construction of a Roman military road; on the Romanian side, marvel at the enormous rock sculpture of Dacian king Decebalus.

Yup, floating along the river and it is scenic. There are hills, mountains, all along the border now. There is a road all along the edge of the river. A very loud motorcycle (I thought it was an airplane) rode by.

 Nice breeze so it is relatively cool as long as you have shade up on this top deck.

We are going through the Iron Gates. the “Iron Gate” is the point where the Danube is the widest and then runs into the gorge of the Karpathian mountains.

 

 Finally the announcement to go up to the top deck to see the face in the rock.

King Decebalus

“The face in the rock”   The Guardian of the Iron Gates , The  “Stone keeper of the iron gate gorge”

It is the tallest rock sculpture in Europe 180 feet (55 meters) high and 82 feet (25 meters) wide. Constructed between 1994 and 2004 by the Romanian artist Florin Cotarcea.

To compare, Stone Mountain Georgia sculpture is 90 feet high and 190 feet wide.

6.5 km is the widest part of the Danube then narrow parts later.

6 miles below the face in the rock (on Romanian side) the Danube is narrow (a quarter mile) and swift.  We saw the  Tabula Triana monument on the Serbian side.  Translated “Trajan’s Table”.

It is a monument to the bridge and to the road hanging off the side of the mountain used to transport troops and supplies.

The route was built out of the sheer rock cliffs that rose beside the river and over the water.

It was built by Trajan who was a Roman emperor from AD 98 to 117.  That is 200 years BEFORE Constantine was emperor from AD 306 until he died in 337.

In 103 AD they finished constructing a bridge OVER the river and roads along the river. The bridge was 3600 feet (12 football fields) (1100 m) long.

It was the longest bridge in history for almost a thousand years.

There were 20 piers of squared stone 150 tall and 60 feet wide.  The piers were 170 feet apart and connected by arches.

This picture is from wiki

They built it to invade and conquer previously lost Roman territory in the wealthy region of Dacia.

This King Decebal region was a great source of revenue for the Roman empire.

However, the Romans ended up spending so much money to access and conquer the region that the gains were just about worthless.

It is a Roman monument to their own engineering accomplishment

This information is from The Roads that Led to Rome by Victor W. Von Hagen and From: Constantine the Great: A Life from Beginning to End (Roman Emperors) by Hourly History

 

 

 

 

About 5:45 we arrive at the lock.

A "Lock" is a watertight chamber built to raise and lower ships in areas where the river bed is not uniform. 

This is the only lock that we will encounter on this cruise.  I'm glad we get to watch the ship go through it.

On the Rhine river a lady on our trip said they went through 60 locks. 6 inches on each side and the ship would bump bump and very annoying wakes you up at night.

There is a 60 meter lift through 2 locks.

Lock 1 is 52 feet (16 meters)

Lock 2 is 40 feet (12 meters) downhill.

There is man-made hydro power plant here: City of Bay Oshava. The power plant is 18.53 meters long.

We were very lucky to enter the lock with no wait, which is very unusual.  

 

Romania (in the EU) on left. Serbia (not in EU) on the right

Enter the first lock chamber. Close the gate.

 

Drain the water in the chamber to lower the ship.

Open the exit gate.

 

When the gate is all the way down, move into the second lock chamber. Close the gate.

 

We are inches from the wall in the chamber!  This my hand reaching out from our room on the ship!

 

 

 

When we were in the lock, it was very, very HOT.  We were not moving and there is no breeze in the deep hole. The air was very heavy and HOT.

At 6:50 pm is was 91 degrees and we were in the second lock.  I went down our air conditioned room.

The process in the second lock was faster than the first lock, but overall it took about an hour and half we finally made it through.

 

I took a picture of this Yugoslavian flag on the far Serbian border. It says "TITO"

 

I was on the roof from about 1 to 6:30 pm today.  At 5 pm it was 97 degrees F (36 C). It was nice when boat was moving for a breeze.  

I was enjoying the "scenic sailing" and talking to many nice people, reading my Kindle book and writing in my journal. Charlie said (and I agree) I have “compulsive pen in hand disorder”.

Sunday dinner was a special buffet. I think it was the best dinner by far on the trip.

They had lamb skewers, roast chicken (I got thigh and leg), beets. I regret not getting the mushroom soup with oysters.

Many selections of desserts, but both strudels (cherry and cinnamon) were dry.

Tomorrow we go to Bulgaria where the currency is the “Lev”. 1 USD equal to about 2 Lev or use credit card. Euro not accepted.  My money exchange chart says 1 LEV is 1.83 USD.

Serbia fun fact from an 8/29/2024 National Geographic channel show

There are 28 ski resorts in Serbia. The Tornik ski resort has the longest gondola in the world that opened in 2020.

It spans a distance of 5.6 miles (9 km) is between Tornik ski resort and the town of Zlatibor.

It uses 3 cables for a total of 11 miles (18 km) of cables on 36 pylons. The longest stretch is 590 yards (6 football fields or 540 meters).

 

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Day 8 - Vidin, Bulgaria

Today we are going to a new country for me:  BULGARIA.

Viking gave us a reminder notice on our beds to set our clocks ahead one hour last night before we went to sleep. The television this morning still says the old time. Whatever.

The ticket on our bed says we are in Tour 36B. I have to say I am very impressed with their tour organization.  If there is four big busses, they print tickets for everyone to get on their assigned bus.

Viking itinerary:

Admire Vidin’s historic landmarks, including the preserved medieval castle.

One of Bulgaria’s oldest riverside towns, Vidin is home to the only entirely preserved medieval Bulgarian castle. Perched impressively on the riverbank, its striking pose, thick ring walls, stout towers and solid gates form a fortress known as Babini Vidini Kuli, which means Granny Vida’s Towers. Around the castle rose a fairy-tale town of 25 minarets, domes and other charming architecture of the period. Though many of these features have been shadowed by today’s city, Vidin retains its charms. Today it is largely an agricultural and trade center renowned for its wines.

 

About Bulgaria: (from Wiki)

Capital and largest city Sofia

Official language Bulgarian

Official script Cyrillic

Ethnic groups (2021 census)

85% Bulgarians
8% Turks
4% Roma
3% other

Religion (2021 census)

65% Christianity (63% Bulgarian Orthodoxy, 2% other Christian)
16% no religion
10% Islam
0.1% other
10% unanswered

Government parliamentary democracy

with a Prime Minister, President and Vice President , Chairperson of the National Assembly

Legislature National Assembly

Area 42,854.9 sq mi

Population (2023 estimate) Neutral decrease 6,385,500 (our guide said population was 6.5 million)

Density 163.2/sq mi)

GDP (PPP) 2023 estimate
Total Increase $216.499 billion
Per capita $33,780

Establishment history

1st Bulgarian Empire 681–1018
2nd Bulgarian Empire 1185–1396
Principality of Bulgaria 3 March 1878
Independence from the Ottoman Empire 5 October 1908
Monarchy abolished 15 September 1946

 

 

These are tours that Viking offered:   

OPTIONAL VIDIN HOME-HOSTED COOKING DEMONSTRATION $79

DURATION: 2 HOURS 30 MINUTES 9:15 for 2.5 hours OR 2:30 for 2.5 hours

Local Life Snack Easy*

THE FINE ART OF BULGARIA’S CELEBRATED BANITSA PASTRY

See how everyday Bulgarians live; learn how to prepare the nation’s beloved banitsa, and how the diet here helps some locals live to 100. Drive with your guide to a home near Vidin, where your gracious hosts greet you with freshly baked traditional round bread. Relax, get comfortable and look around the house and garden. Then, head to the kitchen to see how Bulgaria’s banitsa is prepared, and try preparing it for yourself. This phyllo pastry, a central part of family celebrations, may be prepared with spinach, cheese, grated pumpkin or whatever ingredient is on hand. Often, the baker inserts a lucky charm into the dough before cooking so it can be discovered with much surprise later. As your banitsa, cooks, you can sample the local yogurt and learn to curdle your own. Locals love yogurt in Vidin, and they claim it is why so many of them are centenarians.

 

OPTIONAL BABA VIDA FORTRESS & BULGARIAN WINE $79

DURATION: 3 HOURS 2pm – 5 pm

Special Interest Culinary Moderate*

TOUR MEDIEVAL CASTLE AND SAMPLE DELICIOUS VINTAGES

Explore the wonderfully preserved Baba Vida fortress and sample a selection of Bulgarian wines at a local winery. Meet your guide and embark on a scenic drive to Vidin’s most prominent landmark, the medieval Bada Vida fortress. Enjoy a guided visit of its defensive walls and towers and learn about its history as you tour the museum exhibits. Next, you will visit the Dos Alamos winery for a tour of the facility with an expert oenologist. See how the modern approach of wine production blends harmoniously with more than 200 years of family wine-making heritage during a tour of the lab and underground cellars. Afterward, you will sit down to sample a selection of fine wines accompanied by savory snacks, before returning to your awaiting ship.

We did this tour:

9 am-1pm DURATION: 4 HOURS Sightseeing Natural World Demanding*

BELOGRADCHIK ROCKS AND FORTRESS

SPECTACULAR ROCK FORMATIONS AND THE DEFENSIVE STRUCTURE THEY HELPED SHAPE

Journey into one of Bulgaria’s most scenic regions to see how geography helped create an architectural treasure. Join your guide for a drive from Vidin to the Belogradchik Rocks. With their strange, red-hued cliffs and massifs, these stunning mountains strike a dramatic pose. The result of millennia of weathering, river erosion, freezing and countless other factors, these formations are more than Bulgaria’s great natural wonder. They are also a curiosity for the multitude of fantastic figures and profiles that emerge when you catch them at just the right angle. Silhouettes of people, towers, ships, mushrooms, palaces and animals populate the cliffs. You will also see the fascinating Belogradchik Fortress, built by the Ottomans in a maze of rock columns and pillars. Take a walk around the compound and enjoy superior views of the caves and rock shapes from its many terraced courtyards.

My Notes:

 We arrived at 10:25 and our guide announced that we would be leaving at 11:05.

Seriously?!? We drive an hour to get here and now only have 30 minutes to hike up, walk around and take pictures.

We have adhere to a strict schedule because we need to visit the town of Viden and get back to the ship by noon for lunch.

This my picture of the sign that shows the fortress.

This Wiki picture shows where the fortress is located within the  the "spectacular rocks with their strange red-hued and massifs".

The arrow in the picture above shows the location of the fortress gate in my picture below.

I counted 120 steps going up, then 80 more steps

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Gary took a picture of me and the incredible mountain view and town behind me

 

 

 

About the Belogradchik Rocks

Our guide said the theory of the origin of the rocks is this was an ocean bottom.

Wiki said the formation of the Belogradchik Rocks started about 230 million years ago. They cover about 19 square miles. Some are over 650 feet high.

Iron oxide gives the rocks a red color. She points out formations in the rocks: rabbit, elephant, heads of Adam and Eve.

The sign on site says the fortress “came into being 1-3 AD". Our guide said the fortress was for military purposes until 1885

Messages were sent using smoke from the highest rocks.

There are 2 cisterns 12 meters deep for rain water.

Wiki didn’t have much information. These signs provide more information.

 

 

Here is the text from the signs

The fortress of Belogradchik

The fortress of Belogradchik occupies a strategic location between the Balkan passages "Sveti Nikola" and "Kadu- Boaz". It came into being during 1 - 3 AD. as a small fortress -rampart.

The builder skillfully used the inaccessibility of the so called elliptic stone terrace "first plate" and has built it with defensive, observant, protective and communicative functions. The archeological excavations have discovered the foundations of walls, fragments, ceramics, iron spearheads and arrows, coins from the Roman emperors - Vespasian, Trajan, Septimius Severus, Gordian III, Trajan Decius. Traces of rectangular beams and channels, guiding rainwater into 85 square meters water supply can also be seen.

The fortress was active also during the late antiquity: The ruler of Vidin Ivan Sratsimir (1355-1396) evaluated its strategic significance. During his reign it was additionally fortified and enlarged. Two partition walls and auxiliary buildings were constructed. The hanging wooden bridges and stone staircases provided more opportunities for quick maneuvering. The name of the castle was first mentioned by Hungarian analyst describing the campaign of Ludwig First Anjou. The chronicle tells that within three months after seizing of Bdin (Vidin) on June, 6th, 1365, all remaining fortresses were also captured, including the fortress Fehervar (Belogradchik). The garrison, placed in the fortress, was expelled by rebelling Bulgarians in 1369. In 1396 it was conquered by the Ottomans and partially destroyed.

Eight guards were accommodated in 1454-1455, and hundred years later, the garrison consisted of 27 people and one dizdar (chief of staff). Until the early 19th century, the new masters made only minor repairs and improvements on the fortifications. Entire reconstruction and enlargement started in 1805th by French engineers and was completed in 1837th by Italian fortification specialists. The newly built walls, made of well handled stone blocks plastered with mortar reached 12 meters height and were 2.5 meters wide at the base. War tracks provided speed and mobility for the defenders. Three fortress yards and three portals were formed, strongly reinforced with massive doors, bound with iron bands. Three canon embrasures and three canon platforms increased the defensive capacity of the fortress. Adjacent to them an underground storages for food and ammunition were located. The fortress guards were placed in three guardrooms equipped with fireplaces and stone window seats.

The fortress road paved with cobble and crossing through the entire first courtyard, were also of economic importance small living buildings, craft workshops, sheds for weapons were situated nearby. A barn resembling an "Indian hut", a flour-and salt-mill and stables occupied the free area of the second yard.

The needs of water were met by a well located in the southern part of the middle yard and two tanks in which atmospheric water was collected. Fence made of firmly dug into the ground wooden stakes and baskets filled with stones and mould were important for the outside defense zone. In order to strengthen the western sector of the defense's structure, the so-called Syuleiman fortification was raised in 1862nd.

The fortress is also known with the heroic deed of rebel Velko, who for a short period had gained command of the fortress in 1809, with the heroism of the Bulgarian rebels in 1850, and the actions of the Panayot Hitov's unit in 1876. During the Russian — Turkish Liberation War (1877-1878) the fortress was besieged by Russian and Rumanian troops. On February 25th, 1878 according to armistice the fortress laid down arms to the,Ailied forces. The fate predestined the important role of the fortress during the Serbian - Bulgarian war on 1885, when under its walls were defeated the Serbian forces penetrated through Balkan passages.

Formation of the rock phenomenom "Belogradchik rocks"

The natural formations, famous as "Belogradchik rocks", cover a territory of 50 sq.km. in the region of Belogradchik (the West Fore-Balkan) spread in a line up to 3 km. wide, about 17-18 km. long, at an altitude from 250 m to 620 m.

During Permian period, about 230 million years ago, the Hercynian Folding put the region of the Belogradchik under rising. Later, during Triassic, this region was a bottom of a shallow sea.

The new conditions predetermined an intensive weathering, due to the destroying function of the wind. Large quantity of gravel, sand and clay from the surrounding land got into basin. There these materials precipitated and gradually thickened, forming thick strata of conglomerates (coarse sandstone rich of conglomerate pieces). The fragments were well rounded with a diameter between 5 and 25 cm, and some of them 30-40 cm. In the course of time the layered materials were firmly cemented with silica or sand clay solder and the dry climate at that time formed a large amount of hematite pigment, which made the rusty to deep red color of the rocks. With the sinking of the crust the red colored conglomerates and sandstones were covered with lighter and smaller sandstones, marls and limestone. Jurassic is characterized by deepening of the basin and piling of fine-grained sandstone and typical thick limestone marine sediments.

This sedimentary complex was being formed over 20 million-year-long period. The active geological life at the beginning of the Neozoic era and the young-Alpine tectonic cycle are the reason for the formation of the large folds of the earth (anticlines in the Balkan Mountain). The rising of the Belogradchik anticline started about 40 million years ago. During this folding the limestone was deformed and the conglomerates in the core cracked. A lot of horizontal and vertical rifts appeared in the ridge of the anticline. They favoured the vertical penetration of the surface waters and the vertical erosion of the rock stratum.

Those cracks, formed due to tectonic movements were transformed by the erosion in small valleys and passes with vertical or steep slopes.

Those cracks due to tectonic movement later were transformed into small valleys and passes with vertical or steep slopes because of the ensuing erosion. Smaller tectonic clefts without displacements helped for for the vertical disintegration of the layers and the formation of separate vertical blocks - „The rock figures". The core of the Belogradchik anticline consists of palaeozoic rocks and its slopes and are formed of Triassic conglomerates and sandstones, and also Jurassic limestone.

 

Interesting that signs are evolving from words into QR codes.

The people in charge of the tourist site does not want to maintain the signs with words. They assume there is better information online and that everyone has Internet access and a QR reader app.

My POV: I avoid scanning QR codes. There is too much risk that the code is compromised to infect your phone. I would rather go to a URL.

So this sign say to go https://yttl.bg/BSK15 and that site had NOTHING about the rocks.

If that is the URL associated with the QR code on the sign, they should correct the QR code on the sign either by manufacturing a new sign, or stick the correct QR code over to wrong QR code on the sign.

And that brings me to the biggest red flag: BEWARE if you see that QR code has been altered – I would assume someone altered it to add a virus so DO NOT scan it!

 

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My Notes from the tour guide

Eulia Trina is our very good tour guide.

As soon as we got settled in the bus, she told us that we will see rock formations first, then we’ll see the town of Viden “Vee-dan”

Then she launched into the interesting information and statistics that I like to write down:

Bulgaria population is 6.5 million people

Population of Viden 38,000. It was 70,000 when communist.

Bulgaria has 28 administraive districts 34 year old communism overthrown then there was an economic crisis because markets and natural resources were lost.

In the 70s communism Industrialized Bulgaria. The chemical plant here employed 12,000 people at one time. When Communism left, the jobs left and they are unemployed.

681 the first Bulgarian state was formed

2007 Bulgaria join EU.

And that was problem with the EU money because the Bulgaria has a unique alphabet.

EU money was printed with Latin (EURO) and Greek, then they had to add Cyrillic (EBPO) Bulgarian inscriptions on the EU notes.

The area fell to Ottomans for 500 years. They struggle for liberation of language and religion. That is the “Balkan problem” 1877 Russia war with Turkey 1878 Russia won “Bulliberation War” 1944 Soviet army was welcomed by communist and Bulgarians because they were Bulgarian liberators and communism started here. Bulgarians were deprived of most of our liberties.

Communism nationaliized the country. Land, Shops, and businesses. The wait to buy a car during communism was 5-10 years. Things happened slowed down and with difficulties. 189 He resigned. Beginning of the end of communism. Joke: Before communism the shop sign said “Peters Meats” and you could buy meat.

After communism, sign said “Meat” and only Peter was in the store (there was no inventory!) In 1999 Communism was overthrown but in the first election, a communist won! In the next election a new government finally started to form. 2004 Bulgaria join NATO 2007 join EU 1990 constitution for a “parliamentary government”

A family is usually 3 people. After a baby you get time off work for 2 years. Age 7 start school till 16 years old then high School till 19. There are more than 50 universities now.

Under communism there was only 19 universities. 2 languages are required. English then you choose French, German, Bulgarian language

Before the russian language was required. Healthcare for the old – if you’ve worked – then you get a pension. Pension for age.

Religion: 83% Eastern Orthodox Christians but not many Bulgarians attend regularly Muslims here also (the Turkish minority) and Jewish. During Communism, land was a property of state but after communism it was given back to the people. Health insurance is 8% of income. 2376 meter high mountain range.

80% of Bulgarians own the place where they live .  About 35 square meters to 60 square meters living space.

Regional Historial Museum

The museum was founded in 1902 in Prince Alexander former palace that was built in 1882.   It is a beautiful renovated yellow building

 681–1018 1st Bulgarian Empire

1185–1396 2nd Bulgarian Empire  

1877-1878 Russo-Turkish War

 1878 Bulgaria was liberated from Turkish Ottomans by the Russian army. In Batenburg park, the Turks surrendered Ruse to the Russians then it was an Russian occupied town.

Text from the museum display

The Russo-Turkish War of 1877-1878 lead to the overthrow of the Ottoman authority and liberated the Bulgarians.

The Bulgarian people took part in it, thus giving expression to its will freedom. The Treaty of San Stefano from March 3, 1878, includes within the borders the new state its ethnical land. Accordinq to the Berlin Treaty from July 1878, the Bulgarian territories, settled by the Constantinople Conference in 1876 were divided in five parts. This caused great discontent the among the Bulgarians and to a large degree defined one of the most important tasks for Bulgaria - the establishment of a strong army and fleet for the unification of the Bulgarian territories which have remained outside the state borders. After the liberation Rousse is the largest town in our country and occupies an important place in the public and political life of Bulgaria.

On September 25, 1878, in Rousse in Rouse was established a Unity Committee, chaired by Ivan Varov. On September l, 1880 in Rousse was Issued "Makedonets" newspaper - the first newspaper to raise voice for the liberation of Macedonia. The Bulgarian, Macedonian committee "Iskra" in Rousse, headed by Captail Costa Panitsa, is one of the three centers of the Unification movement of 1885. The main merit for the preparation and implementation of the Unification in September 6, 5, is due to the Bulgarian Secret Revolutionary Committee, led by Zahari Stoyarov.

1879 The Bulgarian Maritime fleet was established

1885 Bulgaria won a war against Serbia

Text from the sign in the Historical museum

The Unification of Eastern Rumelia with the Principality of Bulgaria on September 6, 1885 is not approved ty Russia and the Balkan states. Russia withdrew its officers from the Bulgarian army. Serbia declared war on Bulgaria on November 2, 1885.

"The soldiers were going to war as if a celebration. The entire adult and young population was under the flags. The wounded were spiritedly talking for the heroism and the victories of the Bulgarian army, as if they had forgotten about their injuries.

The attitude of the Bulgarians towards the prisoners-of-war astonished me. Not only that they were not expressing cry malice against the Serbs but they were underlining the brotherly connection between the two nations and they were declaring that they were not on war with them but with King Milan."

Captain-lieutenant Esper Serebryakiv, commander of the Danube Fleet 1885-1886

1908 October 5 Independence from the Ottoman Empire - Bulgaria Independence proclamation

1912-1913 Balkan War

1915 Second Balkan War - Bulgaria was defeated and Macedonia was liberated.

This sign in the Historical museum lists the World War One Battles against the English. The text on the sign lists the mistakes that Bulgaria made in the 1915 when they lost Macedonia.

When the Bulgars attacked us on December 7, they were within thirty miles of us from the south-west in our rear. All through the Bulgars' leadership consisted of a series of mistakes. Had they but realized what folly we were capable of, things would have turned out very differently.

Their first mistake was in staring a frontal attack, as they could any day have come over the mountains by Kocula and Bairam, where too there was a very fair mountain road, and so have cut off our line of retreat. There was nothing to stop them.

Their next series of mistakes was in never following us up and finally in not following us through into Greece.

That morning December 12, the 65th Brigage R.F.A. who had stopped to support the French saw the Bulgars come up on to the hills just over the frontier, and they stopped, got out their glasses and watched us, and then formed up their men and marched back to Doiran (Dojran) town without a shot being fired.  

1916 April The British Battle of Dojran and 1917 - The May Attack -  The Bulgars fought back to their original lines.

1918 The Anglo-Greek attack September was a repetition of the first battle at Dejran but with "larger effective" and further distance. The attack failed as it had failed in 1917 with even heavier losses. During the confused fighting two fact emerged clearly from the perplexed and complicated turmoil of battle. The first was that against us at any rate the fighting spirit of the enemy was as fine as ever. Many of those who took part in the two battle of Dejran agree that Bulgar showed more revolution in defence than in the first battle.

From Wiki: After a disastrous defeat in the Second Balkan War, Bulgaria again found itself fighting on the losing side as a result of its alliance with the Central Powers in World War I.

Despite fielding more than a quarter of its population in a 1,200,000-strong army and achieving several decisive victories at Doiran and Monastir, the country capitulated (surrender, give up) in 1918. The war resulted in significant territorial losses and a total of 87,500 soldiers killed. More than 253,000 refugees from the lost territories immigrated to Bulgaria from 1912 to 1929, placing additional strain on the already ruined national economy.

 1946 September 15 Monarchy abolished 

1989  End of Communist rule

1990 November 15 Current state form  

9:45 now and it is 86 degrees (30 C).  We are on the bus going to the city center to see Freedom Square.

We drove to Freedom Square where the most expensive flats are on this square by the city center.

Get off the bus and our first stop on the walking tour is Holy Trinity Cathedral, a Bulgarian Orthodox church

One of the oldest buildings in Ruse. Built in 1632 during the Ottoman occupation.

They only allowed churches at a location where there was an existing temple so this church was constructed underground where catacombs were located.

Here is the front door where you enter 

6% Muslims live here. There are Armenians and Jews also.

Our guide claimed that “No jews in Bulgaria were sent to camps. And no Bulgarian citizens were sent to the camps.”

Several people in our group asked her to repeat the statement. On the Jews Were Here site https://www.jewswerehere.com/europe/easteurope/bulgaria/ It says jews were deported to death camps, but then it also says Tsar Boris III managed to overcome Bulgaria’s pro-Nazi bureaucracy and stood behind Bulgarian Jewry.

We walked past this beautiful Opera House

We had to be out of our rooms at 8 am this morning!  Leave the whisper boxes in the room. All new people get on the ship this afternoon. There are 5 Viking ships here a week!

I did a big Oops on the boat. The door to the room before our room was propped open so I though Gary had left it open for me.  I walked in and it was not our room! Their bathroom door was also open and I scared the lady in the bathroom. Sorry for my oops!

DURATION: 7 HOURS 30 MINUTES 8:30 am – 4 pm Sightseeing, Meal, Easy

FROM MODEST RURAL DWELLINGS TO THE WORLD’S LARGEST BUILDING. Explore Romania’s fascinating capital, an impressive collection of unique architecture and grand monuments. Founded in the 14th century, Bucharest became Romania’s capital in 1859 with the merging of Moldavia and Walachia. See the city’s wide boulevards, the Romanian Athenaeum, the Arch of Triumph and the expansive Palace of Parliament—the largest civilian building in the world.

Visit the outdoor Muzeul Satului, otherwise known as the Village Museum, where authentic dwellings from all regions of the country have been relocated and reassembled, including rural cottages, farmhouses and water mills. Head to the Old Town and wander amid its narrow streets before lunch at a local restaurant. Here, you will cap your excursion with a lively folkloric performance that recalls the simple pleasures of rural life.  

I did not pick this one because: bus drive to see sights in town then go to a folk museum.

DURATION: 8 HOURS 8:30 am – 4:30 pm Meal Special Interest Sightseeing, Moderate

VISIT PARLIAMENT AND SEE ICONIC CITY SIGHTS DURING A GUIDED WALK.  Discover Bucharest’s Old Town on foot and step inside the opulent Palace of Parliament for an intriguing tour.  Set off by motor coach on a panoramic drive to the Palace of Parliament and learn about the fascinating history behind the impressive site during an inside visit. The second-largest administrative building in the world, it was commissioned by the former Romanian president, Nicolae Ceauşescu, and took 13 years to build. Admire the ornate interior and large rooms adorned with crystal chandeliers.

After your visit, continue your scenic drive to Revolution Square for a photo stop, followed by a guided walk in the Old Town. Stroll the cobblestoned streets while admiring the neo-baroque architecture in the heart of the city.  Cap your walk with a delicious lunch at traditional Romanian restaurant and enjoy free time to explore before returning to your ship.

I did not pick this one because the of the length (8 hours !). You don't get to the hotel until 4:30. The next Highlights Tour was a little shorter,  we take the subway and get to the hotel at 1:30!

DURATION: 6 HOURS 7:30 am – 1:30 pm Sightseeing, Meal, Shopping, Demanding

ADMIRE STUNNING ARCHITECTURE AND DISCOVER ROMANIA’S POLITICAL PAST. Explore the sights of Bucharest on a tour of the Romanian capital. Embark your motor coach for a scenic drive to Spring Palace—once the residence of dictator Nicolae Ceaușescu. View the collection of treasures and personal items that have remained intact since the revolution of 1989.

Next, take the subway to Roman Square. Visit the beautiful concert hall and admire the fresco depicting stories of Romanian history.

Walk down the Calea Victoriei (Victory Avenue) and admire the stunning architecture as you pass the National Art Museum, National Library and Crețulescu Church. 

At Revolution Square, stop and view the building that was once home to the Central Committee of the Communist Party and see the balcony on which Ceaușescu gave his final speech before he was arrested and executed. In the Old Town, you will stroll through the narrow cobblestone streets and stop at the oldest beerhouse in the city for a traditional lunch with locally brewed beers.

The sign at our dock says "Port Giugiu".

Everyone has to exit the ship so there are buses and buses and buses lined up to transport people on the tours.

I am so glad I signed us up for the Highlights tour.  We are on a minibus and there are only 8 people on this tour. Perfect.

At 8:20 am it is 69 degrees F (20.6 C)

Our driver is Adrian and our guide is Joanna (Yoana)

We have a 1.5 hour drive. We will take a 30 minute subway ride today from Ceausescu house to Athenium.

Population

Romania 19 million. Bucharest is 1.7 million. Bulgaria 6 million

During Communism, the state kept your passport. After communism fell, we could travel! People left the county. Many people left.

10 years ago was a third wave of emigration. it was a brain drain.

A Professor makes about 500 EU per month here, or 5000 elsewhere.

“The transition from communism to democratic 5 year plan was utopic, you could not do it. “

“We have a rational fear of Russia.” After Communism fell, then who took over? That is the million dollar question.

Many around Ch declaried they were democrats. They ruled the country and there were elections. .

 They started privatizing the national companies: steel, concrete and asphalt.

They import 500 Philipinos to fill jobs here.

We are rich in resources which are all sold to French and that is bad for our country.

Some people thought our leaders were just filling their pockets.

Electric and oil are self-sufficient here. Nuclear, wind, water hydro.

Resources in Romania were never a problem. It is our leaders that are the problem.

Family

They cannot fire you if you get pregnant. Maternity leave for a year on full salary. The second year you get half salary. There is paternity leave also! Same sex partners CANNOT be married. The state gives you money for each child. Abortions are legal here. Education is free through high school. 25,000 EU per year for medical school. That is a good price.

Real Estate

 In Romania the apartments were all owned by the state. At the end of 1990’s 90% of Romanians owned their apartments. Now it is not so easy to own 2BR $800 EU per month plus utilities

War

 Opinion of Romania about the Ukraine war: 1.5 million refugees came here. Many refugees went to Poland. Ammunition and soldiers go to Ukraine.

Ecomomics

 Her parents were Physics teachers. Under communism, the pay was better. Now 2000 EU per month and 40% goes to taxes to pay health care, unemployment.

Romania will change to Euro money maybe next year. We use Romanian money for now.

The EU allocates funds to each country. Last year $5 billion was allocated but they only spent 1 billion because they “dragged their butt.” 4 billion went back to the EU. That will be taken in to account this year when they figure allocation. (Implying they would not receive as much this year because they could not figure out how spend it on restorations last year.)

In 30 years we have only built 3 highways! It takes forever to drive. But trains are better for transport. There is good public transportation. Train and Subway. Increase size of subway to all points in the city.

“Dacia” cars are made here. Germany is the biggest buyer.

For gasoline, the cost is 1.7 EU per liter.

Agriculture Agriculture is the biggest industry. There is very good soil here.

Weather:

We started having tornados. That has never happened before. First on e was 8 years ago and they have come every year now. Also damaging thunderstorms. 9:35 73 degrees 22.7 C 9:50 74 degrees23.2 C “Beautiful communist architecture” here in Bucharest. Ugly buildings across the street from the hospital.

Religion 90% of Romanians are Christian Orthodox.

We are going to Spring Palace—The residence of dictator Nicolae Ceaușescu

Nicolae Ceausescu Born 1918 – Lived until they killed him on Christmas day 25 December 1989

He was the second and last communist leader of Romania

1967 he was General secretary of the Romanian Communist Party and Head of state

1968 August 21 He became very popular when he said Romania refused to participate in the Warsaw Pact

Warsaw Pact was when Russia, Poland, and Bulgaria invaded Czechoslovakia with 500,000 troops, thousands of tanks, hundreds of aircraft.

Western countries and China also condemned the attack and occupation.

It led to the 1972 detente (a relaxation of strained relations through verbal communication) between USA and Russia and Nixon visiting Breznev in the Soviet Union.

After that until 1989 (22 years) his totalitarian government became the most repressive dictator in the Eastern Bloc. 

Secret police performed mass surveillance,

There was severe repression and human rights abuses.

He controlled the media and press.

Economic mismanagement of oil, agriculture and industry production led to huge foreign debts.

There was a forced collectivization in agriculture and defense, private holdings expropriation (a public agency seizing private property for a purpose deemed to be in the public interest. Like Eminint Domain)

1949 to 1952 there were over 80,000 arrests of peasants and 30,000 ended with prison sentences.

They were imprisoned for "rebellion" and "conspiring against social order”. And political activism and engaging in activities that contradict national interests (similar reasons in 2025 when university students visa were cancelled.)

 Note: Our guide said Wife Elena was about 75% in power since 1975 (the last 15 years of his life).  The last 10 years of his life he had diabetes.

THE HOUSE Also see https://www.itsalltriptome.com/ceausescu-residence-bucharest/

This house is 43,000 square feet (4000 sq meters). Ceausescu lived in this Spring Palace for 15 year before he died.  The last 10 years of his life he had diabetes. 

They had about 80 other houses in other parts of Romania.

In the tourist shop, Bret bought a Peacock whistle. They showed him how to put water in the whistle, then blow and it sounds like a peacock!

Before the tour we walked down a hallway with photographs of people who visited. Nichola was a friend to many world wide leaders.

Queen Elizabeth, Nixon, President Carter,

Pakistan Shah, Iran 1969 visit, Chairman Mao 1971 visit, Saddam Hussen Iraq 1981, Castro 1973

Tito 1974,  Golda Meir Isreal 1972.

11:15 and we are waiting on the front porch for the tour to start.

In the front foyer, we had to put covers over our shoes. It is a very large group of people in the tour.